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Ballyhoo Rigging
A quick and easy way to rig ballyhoo |
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by Sandra Maciak |
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Without a doubt, the most popular big game fishing bait of all time has to be the rigged ballyhoo. Millions are used each year to catch a wide variety of ocean game fish from marlin to king mackerel. There are many different ways to rig them, but there is certainly no one way or right way. The object is simple: get the bait to perform effectively for the fish you are targeting. Different species or different conditions can call for any one of a number of rigging styles. The bottom line is the satisfaction you get when you rig a bait correctly and catch the fish you're after, just like the many tournament winning captains and crews who do it day in and day out. |
Most anglers with some experience with ballyhoo know the basic rigging techniques, but there is another favorite that is not as well known, but that can be particularly productive when conditions call for a slower speed or baits with a little more swimming action. It's called the split-bill ballyhoo. It's a sure fire way to get a ballyhoo to swim like it is alive and if you haven't used the method before, you will be amazed at how well it performs. When rigged properly, the split bill will act just like the lip on a swimming plug causing the bait to shimmy and stay well below the surface, even without a chin-weight. |
A split-bill ballyhoo is a excellent billfish bait and white marlin sharpies have been using it for quite some time, but it can be used for just about any striking game fish. It's a good sailfish bait or you can add a stinger hook and have a great Wahoo or kingfish bait. The rigging technique I'm about to explain and illustrate can be used with any size ballyhoo, from mediums to horses. |
The next
rig is the monofilament split-bill with chin weight . This is a great outrigger bait because it won't get blown
around in the spread as much as the un-weighted rig. It is rigged basically the
same as above, except the placement of the rigging wire is in a different
position due to the addition of the egg sinker chin weight. The rigging wire is
switched back to the hook shank. To accomplish this, run the rigging wire
through the eye of the hook, wrap it around the hook shank then back up through
the eye. The simplest way to attach an egg sinker is to simply run the leader
through the hook eye and the sinker, and crimp them together like in the
picture. Assemble a selection of rigs with different size chin weights and
experiment with them to see which size works best under the trolling conditions
and with different-sized ballyhoo.
The last rig is the pin rig split-bill assembled
on single-strand wire leader . This is a great all around rig when not targeting billfish
because it catches just about anything and it provides the protection of wire
for toothy fish like Wahoo and kingfish. For this one, I like to use a
needle-eye Mustad 3412 hook because it fits cleanly in a ballyhoo's gill plates
without creating any bulge. It is a longer shank hook and works well with
30-pound class or lighter tackle. If heavier tackle is being used, the Mustad
3412C is the double strength version and is recommended.
Start the rig by passing the wire
through the hook eye and making a haywire twist, but leave the tag end pointing
up to act as a pin for attaching the bait. Attach the rigging wire to the eye of
the haywire twist as pictured. The extra weight and the thinner diameter of the
leader wire, when compared to monofilament, makes this bait track straighter and
stay down with less tendency to surface. This bait runs particularly well in the
flat line positions.
Attaching the Ballyhoo After making a sufficient number of rigs, it's time to start arming them with baits. This step is actually very easy and with just a little practice, you can make every ballyhoo swim perfectly every time. All three versions on the split-bill rigs are armed in basically the same manner. For the purpose of simplicity, I will outline how to rig the chin-weighted version, then discuss the minute differences in rigging the other two versions. |
First, clip off the ballyhoo's bill with wire cutters, leaving about an inch from the mouth . |
Then split the
remaining bill down the middle with a knife or your finger nail, but
don't split the bill all the way to the mouth. Next, thread the hook point in between the gill plates and out the center of the belly. Take the rigging wire and go in between the gill plates and into the eye socket and out the side of the socket. Pull up firmly on the rigging wire to set the eye of the hook in the gill plates. |
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The monofilament rig is done in exactly the same manner, except a chin weight isn't used. The wire rig is the same except for the pin. Insert the pin up through the chin and upper lip, then wrap the rigging wire behind it twice, then down and around the bill, underneath the leader. |
These rigs can be further customized for specific fishing situations, but overall, these are three excellent swimming ballyhoo rigs. One final word of caution. Split-bill rigging does not lend itself to using a lure over the nose of the bait like a Hawaiian Eye or a little Mold Craft chugger. A lure over the top of this rig will cause the ballyhoo to swim sideways because of the angle of the leader through the bill and will also defeat the purpose of the rig altogether. Keep in mind, the split-bill trolls effectively at considerably slower speeds than straight-rigged ballyhoo and lends itself to situations where dropping the speed and adding more action attracts more hits. Add it to your repertoire and see if it doesn't increase your trolling success. If you've got any questions, give us a call at Baitmasters, (800)639-2248, and we'll do our best to help. |